In the Atlantic Ocean, halfway between the continents of North America and Europe, a volcanic island sits. A place where tall mountains and frozen peaks clash with boiling lava and warm water from hot springs. This is Iceland, an island settled by the Vikings more than a millennium ago and known today for its beautiful landscapes, unusual wildlife, and friendly people. This article includes an overview of Iceland’s geography, a summary of its history, and a list of some things you may be interested in seeing as a tourist. And, be sure to take a look at some of the materials on Iceland available at your library!
Fire From the Ocean: An Island’s Birth
In terms of Earth’s landmasses, Iceland is quite young. The island first emerged, opens a new window from the sea about 16-18 million years ago. The original source of Iceland’s landmass was an underwater volcano,, opens a new window located on a hot spot in the North Atlantic Ocean. The hot spot brought magma up from the Earth’s mantle into the water, eventually rising out of it and forming the island, which continues to grow to this day from the activity of the hot spot. The hot spot has slowly moved beneath Iceland over millions of years. The hot spot originally was most active in what is now the far northwest of Iceland, but it has slowly shifted to the southeastern region, opens a new window of the island over time.
Because Iceland is so far north and prone to cold weather, its plant and animal colonization took place over a long time, with several fits and starts. Iceland had some forests during the Miocene, opens a new window (up to 5.33 million years ago), a time when the planet was warmer than today. The Pliocene, opens a new window (5.33 to 2.58 million years ago) saw a gradual cooling of the island and a replacement of its more temperate forests with pine, spruce, birch, and alder trees. During the Pleistocene, opens a new window, the world grew much colder, and many of the young mountains of Iceland became covered in massive glaciers. At the end of the Pleistocene (roughly 11,000 years ago), the glaciers slowly receded, forming valleys, lakes, and mountains all over the island.
Iceland’s forests returned as the temperature warmed. When the Vikings first arrived, about 40 percent, opens a new window of Iceland’s land was covered in birch forests. Land-dwelling mammals were scarce in Iceland prior to human arrival; the only native terrestrial mammal is the Arctic fox, opens a new window, although polar bears occasionally swim over from Greenland. Birds were a much more common sight in Iceland than mammals. The bird most strongly identified with Iceland is the puffin, opens a new window, although a variety of gulls, gyrfalcons, ravens, and ptarmigan, opens a new window also live there. Before the Vikings arrived in 874 AD, the only people believed to have reached Iceland were a small community of Irish monks. Called papar, opens a new window ("fathers") by the Norsemen, they left shortly before the pagan Vikings arrived because they did not want to live with them, according to 12th-century Icelandic chronicler Ari Þorgilsson, and left little trace of their existence that can be seen today.
The Vikings Arrive: Settlement of Iceland
Iceland’s culture and language today are based on those of the early settlers from Scandinavia. The Icelandic language, opens a new window, still widely spoken in Iceland today, is largely similar to old Norse, to the point that Icelandic sagas written centuries ago can still be read by modern-day Icelandic speakers. Because of Iceland’s long isolation from the rest of the European community and its long tradition of writing down the sagas, older grammatical forms were preserved in Icelandic that no longer exist in Norwegian or Danish.
The Vikings rapidly changed the landscape of Iceland after their arrival. Almost all the trees, opens a new window were cut down for use in building or in fueling fires. With most of the wood depleted, Icelanders resorted to building turf houses, opens a new window that used walls made out of earth propped up by a wooden framework. Wood was scarce and was mainly obtained from trade and driftwood found in the sea or on beaches.
A Struggle for Independence
Icelanders were largely independent of other Scandinavian nations in the early centuries, but first came under the dominion of Norway in 1262 AD, opens a new window. When the Scandinavian nations united into the Kalmar Union in 1397 AD, opens a new window, Denmark became increasingly influential over Iceland. Danish became widely spoken in Iceland and taught in primary schools. The University of Copenhagen, opens a new window became Iceland’s main center of higher learning until the establishment of the University of Iceland, opens a new window in 1911, and trade was largely monopolized, opens a new window by Denmark. A lack of home rule and Denmark’s imposition of Danish language and culture over Iceland's sowed the seeds of cultural resentment and a desire for independence.
Icelanders had to wait centuries for independence. Although there had long been unease with Denmark’s rule over Iceland, a serious independence movement only began in the 19th century with the writer Jón Sigurðsson. Unlike many independence movements around the world, Sigurðsson’s was peaceful in nature and advanced through the publication of ancient Icelandic sagas, opens a new window as a means of promoting Icelandic national pride and heritage.
Sigurðsson also advocated for free trade in Iceland and an end to Denmark’s monopolies. Though Iceland did not achieve independence in his lifetime (he died in 1879), the movement for independence endured into the 20th century. Iceland became a constitutional monarchy,, opens a new window linked to Denmark, in 1918 and an independent republic on June 17, 1944, while Denmark was still occupied by the Nazis. June 17, which is also Jón Sigurðsson's birthday, is celebrated as Icelandic Independence Day all across the nation today.
Iceland Today: A Young Country From the Sea
Local Protein Sources
Present-day Iceland is a unique country, shaped by the history of its settlers and its geography. Much of the landscape remains rural; travelers will see sheep wandering freely in the mountains and valleys during the summer. Sheep, opens a new window can wander without fences or guards because, as adults, they are too large for the Arctic fox to prey upon. The sheep’s “summer of fun” lasts only from May, opens a new window (the beginning of lambing season) to September, when the farmers come on trucks and horses to round them up. Most Icelandic sheep are bred for meat, and lamb is the main red meat raised in Iceland. The Icelandic hot dog, opens a new window is distinct from other hot dogs around the world because it is made mainly of lamb rather than pork or beef.
Iceland’s fishing industry has been a major part of its economy for centuries. Cod, opens a new window, a fish associated with frigid waters, was traditionally the main catch of Icelandic fisherman and remains the pillar of Icelandic fishing. Since the early 20th century, herring, opens a new window have become an increasingly larger share of the Icelandic catch. Fish are both a large part of the Icelandic diet and a major export industry. Fish are often dried and eaten as fish jerky, opens a new window, a delicious snack with a flavorful, salty taste. On rare occasions, Icelanders may eat Greenland shark, opens a new window. This fish has extremely toxic flesh and requires thorough curing and cooking before it is eaten. Unlike most Icelandic fish, Greenland shark is a very much an acquired taste. It has a texture similar to old, rubbery cheese and a strong, bitter aftertaste that lasts about 15 minutes.
Geothermal and Hydropower
Once considered one of the poorest countries in Europe, the post-World War II period has seen remarkable technological progress. Seventy percent, opens a new window of Iceland’s energy comes from geothermal power, with the remaining 30 percent coming from hydropower. Since the 1970s oil crisis, opens a new window, Iceland rapidly built geothermal and hydropower plants to free its economy from costly foreign oil and coal. Iceland’s geothermal activity not only powers the country and also provides it with wonderful hot springs.
Some of these are naturally occurring, such as the famed Geysir Hot Spring, opens a new window, and others have been created as part of the geothermal power industry. The Blue Lagoon, opens a new window is a pool supplied with water from the Svartsengi power station. Locals and tourists from around the world can mingle and relax in a pool with warm mineral water, rich in algae and silica. Few experiences are more pleasant after time spent in the cold air of Iceland, and the lagoon is beloved by virtually everyone who has visited it.
The Sights of Iceland
Amazing Animals
Perhaps the most recognized animal of Iceland around the world is the Icelandic horse, opens a new window. This breed is noted for its relatively small size (around the size of a large pony), hardiness, athletic ability, and versatility. The Icelandic horse stands as a distinct breed because the first of them were brought over by the Vikings in 874 AD. The Vikings, like other Germanic peoples, opens a new window, saw the horse as a sacred animal and bred it specifically to be as strong and resilient as the horses of the gods they worshipped. The Medieval Warm Period, opens a new window, which occurred shortly after the Vikings landed in Iceland, allowed a breeding population of horses to become established across the country, and the colder conditions that prevailed from 1300 to 1900 meant that only the hardiest horses survived to carry on their genes.
Over time, the Icelandic horses developed two unique gaits, opens a new window that other breeds do not possess: a four-beat lateral gait called tolt and a two-beat sprinting lateral gait called the flying pace. In order to maintain the unique genetics of the Icelandic horse, horses from abroad cannot be imported to Iceland, and any Icelandic horse exported can never be allowed to return.
Many tourists who visit Iceland are very eager to see the puffins. Puffins spend most of their time at sea during much of the year, but come inland to nest during summer, opens a new window. They typically arrive in May and leave in early September, once their chicks are grown. Most tourists who want to see puffins will take a tour package that includes a trip to locations on Iceland’s rocky coastline; this may involve a long bus ride. Once you’ve reached your destination, you’ll find that the puffins, although wild, are not particularly skittish and will likely stand still long enough for you to take photos easily. The puffins often dive off the cliffs into the water, giving you a chance to get some exciting action shots!
Whale watching is another popular tourist activity in Iceland. Various coastal areas offer whaling tours; the types of whales you may see will vary between areas. Possibilities include northern bottlenose whales, opens a new window, minke whales, opens a new window, and humpback whales, opens a new window. Whale watching requires both the patience--to maintain attention during periods where little activity may happen==and the ability to focus quickly when a whale surfaces. You often won’t have long to see the whales and may only glimpse a tail fluke or dorsal fin for a few minutes. Taking a good picture of a whale during an expedition can prove particularly challenging, although it is very rewarding when it goes right. Of the dozen attempts I made to get a shot of a surfaced whale, only about three images actually looked good in the end.
A View from the Bell Tower
There are many interesting things to see in Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital city. One of the most striking is Hallgrimskirkja, opens a new window, the tallest church in Iceland. This striking Lutheran parish church has a very tall tower that gives visitors wonderful views of the surrounding city. You can take photographs out the windows or of the church bell inside once you reach the top! Going up the tower requires a lengthy elevator ride, as well as scaling some stairs near the very top, and may not be recommended for those with mobility issues. All visitors, however, can see the church’s beautiful interior, opens a new window and its massive pipe organ at ground level. This church took over 40 years, opens a new window to construct and is considered one of Iceland’s crowning architectural achievements.
Cool Trips to the Countryside
If you want to take a road trip further into Iceland, be sure to visit the glaciers on the mountains. Iceland has many large glaciers, opens a new window, especially in the interior areas and north of the country. In some locations, such as Jökulsárlón, opens a new window, climate change has caused the glaciers to melt into glacial lagoons or lakes. These locations offer opportunities for stunning photography, as icebergs slowly drift and melt in the waters of the lagoon. You may have to take a brief hike across rocky terrain to get to these photo opportunities. Glacier locations also often have memorable views of rainbows, opens a new window, particularly after the frequent rains Iceland is known for. Some glaciers have waterfalls, opens a new window that will provide you with beautiful photos as well. Arranging a trip to a glacier on your trip to Iceland is highly recommended!
More to Explore
Iceland is a unique nation filled with memorable experiences. When planning a trip there, be sure to take in as much as you can in the time you have. You can get ready for your Icelandic adventure using eAudio and eBook travel guides, opens a new window from the Library's hoopla collection., opens a new window While you’re doing so, why not also read an Icelandic mystery or thriller, as well? Popular Icelandic authors include Eva Bjorg Ægisdóttir, opens a new window and Ragnar Jónasson., opens a new window If you can't physically get to the island, consider streaming The Great Tours: Iceland, opens a new window series from the library's Kanopy, opens a new window collection for a virtual visit.
